4th March – Magic on wheels

IMG_3873I never did realise how big Penny is until I was driving next to her today as an onlooker. Arica to Iquique was a minor drive of 380k’s with a small hill climb at the halfway point. After our test, Peter Little in the Bentley 4.5 was nice enough to let me drive the remainder of the day. He noted that I had said I loved his Bentley so I jumped in with him, and Dad finally got to have a drive of his own car with Louise as his temp navigator. The Bentley was purely astonishing to drive, where the Vauxhall has some slop in the steering box, the bentley was tight and responsive. Where Penny charges up a hill with gusto, the Bentley soars up overtaking lane like a hot knife through butter. Don’t get me wrong, Penny is still my favorite rally car, but the Bentley was just magic in every way!

The drive today took us through more nothingness. Not a single bit of flora anywhere except the absolute middle of an ancient dray riverbed or the seaweed wofting about the waves on the pacific. Nothing to report apart from dipping down and up valley’s with nothing at the top and nothing at the bottom. Almost as deep as the Grand Canyon but this place has more sand over everything opposed to exposed sedimentary rock. There was so much nothingness today that nothing really actually happened, apart from my Bentley drive. More rocks, more sand, more sunburnt faces of the non-sun-smart. More traffic police on the roads actually. But I work on a fantastic principal, If I wave at them, then the policemen are too busy waving back to target their radar on me. Effective technique don’t you think?

South America still surprises me. I had no idea Chile was so brutally arid. Tomorrow we go to the driest desert on Earth! I actually thought this was a desert here, can’t begin to think what that place will be like. Maybe Iquique is a quagmire in comparison. Time will tell.

James

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3rd March – As high as a kite!

IMG_3781First up, sorry about my hiatus for the past few days. I would like to have an awesome excuse but fairly simply I just never got around to whipping an update together, and now it feels ridiculously hard to try and catch up on the happenings. Lesson learnt, daily shenanigan updates from now on, pictures or no pictures.

28th – Puno to Cusco is first on the list. Our first complete day driving through Peru. And allready it is such a stunning country and the Peruvians are more than pleased to have us trundling across the countryside 25 cars strong waving at anyone on the roadside. It really does take at least 4 days or so to even begin to acclimatize to 12,000 feet and today was the first day that I wasn’t completely knackered and out of breath charging up a set of stairs. I just wish that given enough time a car can acclimatize to the altitude and run better, no dice though. Just have to wait for sea level to unleash Penny’s astonishing overtaking prowess. The good thing was that our destination for the night was at a more manageable height of 11,000 feet :/

Altitude this, altitude that! We all know how much it messes with everything. But it also makes mountains just so spectacular. The only aspect of the drive into Cusco and Urubamba that didn’t classify as one of the best drives of my life was the bloody clouds. The stupid clouds and rain simply blanketed everything. And when it wasn’t raining we couldn’t see any of the mountain peaks around us and we couldn’t grasp any sort of scale. Luckily just before our final descent into the valley within a valley the sun peaked through and the lush forested Ande’s were truly spectacular.

Reckless driving stories from today are at an all time minimum. Nothing out of the ordinary now, llama’s still do what they want, sheep run around on the roads in a herd and donkeys have no idea what the difference between asphalt and grass is. Donkey’s pose the least threat because they have zero amounts of care for a car or a rock wall, they don’t even flinch and eyelid as I beam past with horn on full and my foot down on the noise pedal.

1st – Machu Picchu. The rest day at Machu Picchu was dazzling. I honestly cannot describe the wonders of this place. Wikipedia does not even give Machu Picchu justice so I am not even going to link it. It is still hard to grasp that I can be at the bottom of a valley, still twice the height of the highest point in Aus. Looking upward to peaks still 1000’s of meters up. And EVERY surface and face of the Peruvian Ande’s is covered in the thickest and lushest tropical forest. No resting was actually had today as the 3 hour train departed at silly o’clock in the morning and would only return back to our resort at O dark hundred. Worth every minute! I would even come back again just to wander a bit more around the lost Incan city.

2nd – Cusco to Aeroquipa is the day of interestingness. I think I used my indicator for the first time since Rio de Janeiro today. It felt strange. But a policeman was driving behind me so I thought it might have been wise to do what I should do. It didnt matter anyway, he still directed me to pull over with his big long yellow baton. Good thing it was only for a photograph shoot. Police photograph shoot number 8 of 3.7 million soon to come. I know they aren’t pulling me over for a reason and just want a photo but after a while I just want to drive right on past them and pretend they don’t exist. Somehow I don’t think that would be an ideal situation and could instantly turn into an anti-party if he pulled out his six-shooter just to show off. I would not win that battle.

The bar-side rally briefing last night warned us all of quiet a long stretch of dirt roads and route amendments on the prescribed rally route, a longer yet asphalt route had been offered to the ones who wanted a hassle-free drive. Guess which way we took? The dirt road of course. Thats how I roll. This awesome dirt road wound its way past and through some giant mines and across a plateau and finally crested at a mind staggering 15,980 feet. The highest I have ever been outside of a plane. The highest Penny has gone. And undoubtably the worst Dad has felt. He had contracted what some people delicately label as a ‘gastric imbalance.’ The lack of air certainly didn’t help what South Americans call Montezuma’s Revenge.

Tomorrow we will visit the west coast and take a peak at the pacific ocean. But still we are in dense forestry that has annual rainfall of 70-90 inches a year and someone says that the other side of Aeropquipa is some kind of barren wasteland. No, not possibly, can’t change that quickly.

3rd – Ok I was wrong. very very wrong. The last 24 hours has changed more than anyone could imagine. Thunderstorms ad fog at 14,000 feet yesterday arve, sea level and dry hot desert today all within 150k’s of driving. The western coast of Peru has nothing but rocks and hills and dry ancient riverbeds. This place is dryer than Namibia, and I thought that was dry. Not even a scerrick of plant life, not even on the edge of the tarmac where any form of water runs too. Windy and barren is all I can say. The only thing that changed when we got to the pacific ocean was that on our right was water and on the left of still desert, still hot and dry. A beautiful tarmac test section today! Don’t worry, still placed 1st in class and subsequently have gained solo first position overall.

Border crossing completed in record time! Out of Peru and into Chile in a zoomingly quick time of about 45 minutes. Stamp stamp here and a stamp stamp there. everywhere a stamp stamp. Even plus kudos’ to the fixers who guaranteed us a private and exclusive window at the customs and immigration booth. You guys nailed it. Not only do we get our overtaking speed back from sea level we can also buy 95 octane fuel at any regular fuel station. Yay.

Thanks, James.

p.s. The crews of the Itala, Austin Healy and the Shooters form the model A have rejoined the rally in a hire car from Arica.IMG_3853 IMG_3829 IMG_3822 IMG_3785 IMG_3762 IMG_3743 IMG_3756 IMG_3739 IMG_3753 IMG_3744 IMG_3777

26th/27th – Rest well welcomed

IMG_3566We left La PAz yesterday morning with anticipation that the 370km day and a border crossing would turn into complete hell and yet another late night into our temporary home. But the beautiful drive out of Bolivia whizzed by given it felt like all we did was go up and down hills. It turns out that any time of the day in La Paz has hectic crazy traffic, but you all know that doesn’t bother me, I make my own lanes and just power on through. Still dint-less…. touch wood. It is pretty funny hearing stories from other competitors at the end of the day as to who got pulled over by the cops and had to pay some kind of fine. Whether it was Steve Hyde racing along in his merc or Paddy and Scott in Stanely plodding along under the speed limit the fine was all for the same speed and everyone ended up paying various amounts of money, ranging from 20 local monies all the way to 200 locals. From 10-100 dollars or thereabouts. In comparison to all the other border crossings I have done, yesterday’s Bolivian -> Peru was almost seamless. From pulling up to exit Bolivia and leaving Peru entry side was about an hour and 5 minutes. Leaving us with only 150k’s to go and it was only lunch time. How brilliant!

The funnest and most awesome part of yesterday was 200meter ferry we had to cross to get across a narrow peninsular of Lake Titicaca. I was expecting a rope or wire barge that just went back and forward all day, but no, it was a 2 car barge (made entirely of planks of wood) thats propulsion was with a 25 horsepower yamaha outboard motor and steering was a man with a big stick of wood. The price also ranged from between 20 local monies per car to 60 per car, depending on how much the barge captain thought the cars were shiny enough to afford it.

We were shacked up in Puno for two nights and a rest day on the western edge of Lake Titicaca (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Titicaca). It was a stunning up and down drive as we hugged the coast line for a solid 90k’s passing through little villages doing their own thing. Todays day off was merely an opportunity to spend more hours fixing their cars, or getting the rally mechanics fixing cars for them. We found a few broken spokes on our wheels so I stripped them and replaced a few spokes while Dad had to venture into town and borrow a metal lathe to machine a part which had fallen off our steering arm system somewhere. Nothing terminal or overly challenging but still took most of the day to get things back on track. Still a whole lot less work than what some other cars have undergone. I have seen engine heads lying next to cars, suspension pulled apart and all the like.

imageBeard news on the beard front is good. I will well and truly look homeless by the time we get to Ushuaia. It is only Paddy (car 12) and myself left unshaven but he is looking to clip or trim tonight. Weeeaaakkkk! I’ll hold it together!

I managed to squeeze in a little touristy stuff today as well, with a boat cruise onto the Lake to see the floating villages. They are villages (approx 2500 people live on the floating islands) that are made of reeds all strapped together and literally float. Got out there, walked on them, saw how they were made, come back. Tick. Done that now. It was mildly interesting. The funniest part was the boat running out of fuel on the 600meter journey out there, which wasted careful car fixing time. Afterwards the boat guy said to us “Look, sorry about that, we didn’t think to check the fuel level.”

Another first for me today was learning how to fly fish. Chris Evans from the Model A brought his rod and I dabbled in a bit off the jetty at the back of the hotel. “You’re a natural, James” he said. It was good fun.

Tomorrow we plod our way north to Cusco for another 2 nights (another lovely sleep in :D) and go for a squirt up to Machu Picchu.

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24th/25th Feb – An offer you cannot refuse!

Ok, how does this sound? Tonight I blog for the previous 2 days, tomorrow we have a 300k day with a border crossing (no one knows how long that will take) and then the day after we have a rest day. So, either tomorrow afternoon I upload a bunch of pictures, or the rest day I will catch up. Awesome, I’m glad you have accepted.

24th Sucre to Uyuni. Up at 6, on the road at 7. Just enough sleep. Put it this way, the 5 hours sleep that we got was a wholllleee lot more than some others. Small timed section and then a beautiful tarmac road for the remaining few hundred k’s to Uyuni – town of the famous Bolivian Salt Flats. It was a road that curved and winded through the spectacular landscape, It was a road I would have loved to drive my Golf R32 flat out using every inch of the unused tarmac. Penny had her highest climb today at a solid 13,000 feet. And I will tell you what, at that altitude all cars lose so much power. On the dead flat stretches we can barely climb to 100 kmh and at sea level we race our way to 110 up a slight uphill. As well as the cars having a bit of struggle in the spacey air, people have a harder time as well. Simple tasks are just the little bit more difficult. Carrying bags up a few flights of stairs left me somewhat a bit puffing. Need to get fitter when I get home.

Salt flats! now, I have never seen any kind of salt falts before and I went to the best I could have – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salar_de_Uyuni eat your heart out on wiki. Pretty cool stuff. We even got in early enough in the afternoon (second car in) and did a tour over the flat. I couldn’t believe just how flat it was. Extraordinary.

Bolivia in a nutshell is……. geographically amazing. But still very much a third world country. Somewhat like Africa almost. Government is horribly corrupt and has holes all through any form of organization.

A few policemen waved their radar guns at as as we blasted past in a flash of silver and red but made no attempt to flag us down or chase us (I would have shaken the tail anyway!) for a ‘contribution to his pocket’.

The early evening brought a strange occurrence to the desolate locale of Uyuni with a huge storm cell making its way across the flats bearing down on the fragile town. It was pretty cool watching a lightning show with the sunset in the distance on the silhouetted horizon. The interesting thing was that the storm wasn’t that large or menacing but it still had so much hail. I think the fact we were already at 13,000 feet and 10 degrees C the storm didn’t need to be monstrous to be cold enough for hail. Penny is fine, she is a monster.

25th. The locals of Uyuni at dinner last night informed us that the 120k’s of dirt road scheduled for this morning takes them 6hours in a landcruiser, and the 350km tarmac detour was a better option. Organisazion made the call for us to backtrack yesterdays roads for a few hours and turn off to La Paz. Making today 780 k’s. 12 hours, 10 minutes and the bell boy outside the Raddison Hotel almost had a bowel movement as dad yelled “LEFT HERE JAMES” and thundering downshifts and vibrating exhaust missed his trolley by a meter or so (heaps of room). 14,200 feet is now the highest Penny has gone, still gutless and has less gusto as I plant the Go Pedal to over/undertake a slower moving truck. Still such a STUNNING drive.

Imagine driving in the southern hemisphere at the end of summer, freezing your tits off, and having permanent snow capping the surrounding mountains. Very surreal. We even saw more Llamas than people today. The sturdy four legged animals are just munching along on grass like nothing in the world bothers them. I still haven’t made up my mind if baby llamas are cute or not either. Google images them!

La Paz is hectic. Our entrance to the city had about 12k’s of the second densest traffic I have experienced (second to Cairo peak hour) and I can honestly say I was in my element. Traffic in Penny is just so fun. Being big, menacing, and goes blub blub blub faster than anyone could imagine. The only way I can describe some of the maneuvers I do to cut across 3-4 lanes of bumper to bumper horning tooting traffic is: threading the needle. I did better than Cairo when I hit a bus. Today I hit nada! Winning. I’m sure a few other cars in my path had a few ‘sphincter tightening’ moments.

I know I have left out copious amounts of interesting facts and stories from Bolivia. however, my gullet is full and my bed beckons me. Tomorrow into Peru and Lake Titicaca.

In less happy news, 5 cars are now deemed terminal and pulled out. 🙁 Updates on who and why tomorrow.

From La Paz, a strange and hectic city.

James

Shout out to my amigos at home. Another 4-5 weeks until I home. Don’t miss me too much.