Reunited with Penny

Yesterday was reuniting day. We saw Penny the day before as we got to the Cinderella Hotel in the dark after a long days travel from the Sunderbans.

We both rose early so we could get down to the car park for some pictures before the crowds arrived. The cars were all decorated with flowers and little pray wheels and statutes.

After breakfast it was tinkering time ready for a shake down drive to calibrate our tripmeters then up into the foothills to visit a small school before lunch in a park with some local dance performances.

Our departure was slightly delayed due to when we went to drive off we found that our Clutch plate had stuck to the Flywheel. Alistair gave me some very helpful advice in getting it unstuck and we were of into the traffic mayhem. It was so great to be back driving Penny and been in the chaos with all the bikes, trucks, tuk tuk, rickshaws and then dodging the cows that sleep in the middle of the road and everyone just drive around it till it shifts.

After returning from lunch we had time for a quick shower before ducking to a local shop to collect my Kurta (see the photo so you understand what it is) that we had ordered the previous evening and we had to wait for it to be made to measure. Then we all boarded a bus to take us to the train station.

 

As Adrian Shooter is involved in some of this rally he had arranged for a stream train ride up to Rongtang Station on the 2-foot gauge railway track to Darjeeling. While we waited about an hour at the station for the track to clear of other trains, before our departure could take place we walked down to the engine shed to see the engines being prepared for our journey. This walk took us past some of the many homeless in India that call the station yards home. As soon as we boarded the train we where served of dinner and drinks while we travelled across the flat to Sukna station at the foot hills of the mountains to take on more coal and water for the climb up the hills. It was went the train started the hill climb that we got that great sound of a Steam engine really working hard, and at times with the speed getting down to not much more then walking pace it was really working. Our steam engine also appeared to have no spark arrestor in the Stack as the harder it worked the greater the fire works show was with hot sparked being sprayed 10 -15 meters in to the air. Just as well the forest is green and lush.

About ¾ of the way to the top our steam engine stopped being a steam engine and became a big blue hot water system with no Choof Choof .

Luckily our buses for the return journey were close by so we disembarked the train and boarded the buses when the decision was made that the engine was not going to make it that night.

Today was the start of the driving proper. So after all the cars were blessed we departed for the climb up to Darjeeling for our overnight stop. The climb to Darjeeling took us through acres and acres of tea plantations and around countless bends. At one stage we travel along a ridge top that forms the border between India and Nepal with the border only marked by white posts, so Julie and I walked over and crossed in to Nepal so the she can say she has been to Nepal.

We made several stops in villages en route with this invariably causing traffic chaos as the crowds gathered around the cars to take photos and look at something that is rarely seen in this neighbourhood. In some of these towns the locals play a gambling dice game on the street. It caused great excitement when I decided to have a couple of wagers and even more excitement whenever I won. After making a small donation it was time to continue on to Darjeeling.

When we arrive in Darjeeling I didn’t think you could have a town on such steep hills. We where greeted at a very old hotel called the Windamere which served a great lunch for us all.

I decided to write for my blog after lunch so as not to get to far behind as its always very difficult to catch up.

Just got the photos to do then post it after Dinner tonight

Taking a break from getting the blog together I went and checked Penny over followed with a walk down the street to check out the local retail therapy.

The Windamere is a very quaint colonial hotel. When I returned from the shopping trip it was getting very cool, only to find a great coal fire in the fireplace so very snug and romantic indeed. While at dinner the turn down service had been around and everyone’s bed had a hot water bottle in it.

 

So till next time this is Max and Penny signing off. Read Julies blog to experience the trip through her eyes.

Tigers in the Sunderban National Park

On Tuesday after getting the customs for our cars sorted in Kolkata on Monday we headed south to the Sunderbans National Park to look for Tigers while the cars are moved to Siliguri by truck through the worst traffic that was to hectic for the first day of a rally.

The Sunderbans is a hugh park on the Ganges Delta which is the largest Mangrove Swamp in the World and also the home to about 400 Bengal Tigers. The reserve is approx. 40,000 sq k. and spread across both India and Bangladesh; hence there is lots of trees and Swamps between each tiger so the chance of a sighting is very low. (The size of the park seems to be different areas depending on who is give the talk)

The trip South stated with a 100k 4 hour Bus ride from Kolkata through the suburbs then farming land of the Delta. After the bus ride we boarded a boat for the next 1 1/2 hour through the swamps to our home at the Sunderbans Gateway Resort for the next 2 nights. The resort was on an Island beside the National Park and between the Rally Round Staff and Resort Staff our stay has been fantastic in a very remote part of India.

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Looking across Fish farms to brick making Kilns
Looking across Fish farms to brick making Kilns

The first night we had a performance from a local dance troupe prior to having Dinner. Dinner the second night was proceeded with a play put on by the local Drama group. This was a performance about local Folklore that I will remember for a long time. They turned up about an hour early and set up the lights, microphones and musical instruments for the live music in a tent at the end of a paved yard at the resort. The whole performance was in the local language so we understood nothing but we’re all able to make out the basic story.

The day was spent in the Sunderban Tiger Reserve cruising around looking for wildlife and hoping to spot a Tiger. On the Tiger front all we saw was some pug makes where a tiger had walked across the mud from the water earlier in the day. But as always it’s pleasant cruising around on a boat.

Tiger tracks in the mud.
Tiger tracks in the mud.

Later in the day we did manage to see a couple of Crocs and a few lucky people saw some local Deer.

The whole stay at the Sanderbans Gateway Resort was a great time with comfortable rooms and great local food.

Today we arose at 0500 hrs ready for the long boat ride and even longer Bus trip back to Kolkata airport for the flight up to Siliguri at 1350hrs to be reunited with our cars. Everyone was ready for this event. Tomorrow will be a packing and tinkering day ready for the start of the driving days.

Walking the streets of Kolkata

We continue to walk the streets of Kolkata as we soak up the many and varied cultures of the city.

On Saturday we rose early for a second visit to the morning Flower Market, to see it on what is reported to be very busy day and that it was. It is difficult to describe the many and varied activities at the market as everyone is making or selling something Floral to help put food in their mouths. Most of the stallholders are living it the small shed or lean-to that is their stall.

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On the banks of the river at the market is one of the many Ghats for washing and bathing. It was quite busy during our visit with all sorts of washing and cleaning. I struggle to comprehend the concept of washing in a river that also doubles as the sewer, but I guess so be it when you have no choice.

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From the flower Market we walked over the Howrah Bridge to the Howrah Fish Market, which is the wholesale fish market for Kolkata. OMG so many and different sorts of fish! Julie and I wondered how the rivers and oceans keeps supplying enough fish for Kolkata everyday let alone the rest of India and the world. All the fish arrives packed in Polystyrene boxes with ice that are held together with packing tape then sown up in Hessian bags to keep them together.

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I have no idea what weight this collection represents? Most fish seemed to be weighed with a different collection of weights and stones.

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After lunch we visited the poet Rabindranath Tagore’s house and Museum, before going to look at the Marble Palace. At the entrance to the marble palace we were shown a sign and asked if we had permission from the government. As we had no knowledge of needing permission we said no and was turning around to walk off when he told us if we paid him 100 Rupees each and we gave the guide inside 400-500 Rupees we could look around, so of we went to check out the Marble Palace. Inside was a huge room full of the sort of stuff that Palace’s collected in the past and can’t afford to look after, like at least one Rubens. Paintings and sculpture’s everywhere and not the best environment for them with the humidity and heat of Kolkata.

Then it was time to head home via the Saree and Kurti shops. For future reference don’t try shopping in Kolkata on Saturday afternoon as the other 14.48 million people of Kolkata had a similar plan and it’s worse then Christmas shopping on Regent St London. We ended walking the 3.5 k’s home, as it was faster then the traffic.

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Saturday night and Sunday morning was catching up with friends from previous rallies.

Sunday started with catching a taxi to the Belur Math a Ramakrishna Math Temple in the morning. We then proceeded to a shopping district for retail therapy for Julie, which ended most successfully with the purchase of some Salwar Suits.

Following a street side lunch we made a visit to the Victoria Memorial Hall and Museum. A lot of attractions in India you are not allowed to take photograph so I have no pictorial records to share. I have put up a collection of images in a gallery below.

Till next time thank you for reading my ramblings.

A Couple of days as Gulliver!

Julie and I have spent a few days in Kolkata already before the rest of the rally arrives. This time has been spent visiting some of Kolkata’s markets and walking the streets soaking up the local atmosphere.

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The first day after we woke from an early morning arrival we headed out just to walk the streets and look around and be part of the hustle and bustle that is market life in this city. Just before we decided to head back to the quite sanctuary of the hotel we stumbled upon one of the main fruit markets for Kolkata where fruit and veg’s from as far away as Washington USA and China was being unpacked sold and also auctioned.

Fruit Market
Fruit Market

We have found returning to the hotel most calming as it insulates us from the endless sound of car and bike horns as every vehicle is always vying for a better spot in the traffic and to let cyclist and pedestrians that someone is approaching.

Early the next morning we visited the Flower market under the Howrah Bridge that crosses the Hooghly River, which is a main delta river of the River Ganges. This market is the distribution point for the flowers that come in to Kolkata every night. We travelled to the market by taxi and it was noticeablely funny how using the car horn has become part of driving as our driver was driving down a quite street with no other car or person insight about every 10 second or so he would give the horn a toot toot. Julie and I looked at each other and wondered if he even new he was doing it?

The rest of that day was spent visiting the Indian Museum. What a wonderful and interesting collections of things from both India and around the world. This museum was a time warp of some sort because of the rows and rows of display cases and how things where shown was straight from the 60’s and still the same in most halls.

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Now back to the title of todays Post. Now most of you know that I’m a fairly big specimen of the human race, well in the back streets and at the museum the locals especially the kids look at me like I should have been in one of the glass display cases. I have felt like Gulliver in the land of little people.

Today started with a visit to Mother Teresa’s house and tomb then we embarked on a walk around the East Park St Cemetery, which dates back to the 1770’s. This place really showed how fragile life was in those times with the numbers of young people, and mothers and children buried together I think the oldest person we saw was in their mid sixties but teens, 20’s and 30’s was the norm not the exception.

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The afternoon was spent at a different shopping area to walk the streets and alleys in search of clothing that Julie was requiring. This led us to meeting a retired local gentleman that had studied and worked overseas during his life. He took us back to his house for a chat and a cuppa, which was just a fabulous couple of hours. The day finished with a taxi ride back to the sanctuary, and taxi rides when the traffic is heavy all seems to have a bit of carnival ride in them.

Our wonderful host and his house for a couple of hours
Our wonderful host and his house for a couple of hours

Till my next time Bye from Kolkata.