OMG Drive to the Festival.

We left Trongsa on a very crisp clear morning for the 185k drive to Mongar for a rest day and annual festival.

The night before some rain and a cool change had passed through which resulted in crystal clear air. The day started as what has become a normal drive in Bhutan with crossing a couple mountain passed in excess of 3500 metres and lots of big drops off the edge and views everywhere. As we gained altitude Julie and needed to put on more clothing as the temperature drop while driving thought acres of heavy frost all the way from the valley floor at our overnight stop.

Part way to the first pass we looked out to our right and it was the first OMG view for the day. We looked across at part of the Himalayas, which was the highest mountain in Bhutan. The drive continued on over the first pass where some of us hung prayer flags we had been provided that morning.

Descending the other side the prayer flags worked for Frank and Ross as we found them parked on the side of the road with no brake due to a broken line. With a part from David and some brake fluid from Gerry we blocked line to the broken pipe for them to proceed on with three-wheel brakes ready for the mechanics to repair on the rest day.

And hour or so later we topped the final pass for the day, passing the Stupa and looking out to the left it was a OMFG moment. The horizon was full of snow covered Himalayas. The photo will tell the whole story.

We wound our way back and forth across the hills to a lunch stop picnic on the side of the road prepared by the lady that cooks for the King when he visit the region.

After the picnic Mark Wenklemen spent the afternoon with me since he wasn’t able to bring his car and drive for small reason and was doing the rally with a driver in a local car. The afternoon drive descended out of the pine and fur trees in to tropical jungle clinging to the steepest mountainside you can imagine. We past to very great water fall on a road that would be like the death road in Bolivia if it had the volume of traffic. About 100ks of the drive this day was through national park.

As we are moving east in Bhutan the traffic is very sparse as this day we meet all most no one in the morning then a couple dozen in the middle of the trip them almost no car for the afternoon drive.

We arrive in the bustling little hillside town of Mongar after crossing the river at 400 metres elevation then a great short steep mountain road climb through roadworks to 1600 metres elevation ready for the festival.

Those sleeping on the town side of the hotel experienced the festival all night as it carried on till 0630hrs this morning. The entire rally met in the foyer at 0830hrs for help with the national dress we had been give earlier. The Gho that men wear is almost impossible to fit on your own. The half Kira for woman is an art in putting on that take practice. Julie has mastered fitting a half Kira herself as she has worn one everyday since getting to Bhutan but still requires  help from me for fitting a full Kira.

We walked the short distance to the festival in the square at the Monastery. This is a most colourful event of dancing and music. For a more complete coverage of the festival it will be best to read Julies blog at www.juliestephenson.net/journal.

The same cook served lunch to us in the Palace gardens as yesterday.

The afternoon was spent writing this and sorting photos to save spending all night after dinner, before going for a walk around town.

2 Tough Days Driving

It’s been a few days since you have heard from me. It’s a combination of tiredness and a small car repair job.

We will start with the car repair first, 2 days ago as we where driving the 180ks down to Gelephu on the Indian border late in the day after stopping for a photo I pushed the starter button only to engulfed in silence instead of the all to familiar engine rumble. A quick check at the roadside indicated the alternator had most likely failed. We run started down the hill and finished the day on the charge left in the battery to get us to the Hotel. On arrival we did a through check and yes the death of the alternator was upon us. We new we could continue for a few days by not stopping the engine and charging the battery from another car when needed. Frank gave a transfusion that night to get us going for the run up to Trongsa.

I was offered spare alternator’s from a couple of friends if I required.

On arrival in Trongsa I asked Paddy if he had a spare, which he did and was willing to share with a fellow traveller in need. It was different to the one we had, but in a couple of hours Charlie, Richard and I had it fitted into Penny just in time for evening dinner, we only needed to finalise the wiring before breakfast today. After the wiring was all finished we had a good steady stream of electrons flowing to the battery for prage and later use.

Now to the last three days driving, upon leaving Punakha the rally split into the long drive group with 180ks to drive and the short drive group traveling just 60ks for the day on a different route.

Driving in Bhutan is so totally different to any other trip I’ve ever travelled. Since entering Bhutan we are averaging about 30kph. The slow speed is a combination of narrow roads, very close sharp corners, meeting other traffic, road works, and negotiating your way around the numerous landslips. We arrived in Gelephu, which is a town down on the lowlands of Bhutan about 1k from the Indian border after 6 ½ hours. Gelephu is a Bhutanese town with a very Indian feel as it is so close to India and on the lowland and very much remote from the mountain villages that are the main Bhutanese life style.

As we followed the rafting river from the day before we passed two large Hydro Power station projects along with the Dams and tunnels required to get it all working.

Upon leaving Gelephu the following morning we immediately started to climb and it was back into anther day of hills and corners with scenery that was indescribable again. The day was spent climbing in and out of immense river valley’s doted with little villages where if was just flat enough to farm and live. The roads we could see on the mountainside to some of these villages were toonarrow and steep for any large vehicles to travel.

During the day we passed construction work for more Power Stations for electricity, which is the main export of Bhutan to feed the growing demand by India. Along with the power stations you need to put in the transmission lines which are traversing some of the most rugged country you can imagine. All the construction for this is being done by hand including all the steel for some tower sites being carried in by hand then built. All the cable is hauled through the jungle and winched into place by hand.

Summing up the these 2 days driving down to Gelephu and back I would have to say are the toughest and most amazing drives I have done. It was only 200ks each way but never before have I been on a road where the whole time you are steering either direction constantly. We only got into 3rd gear for about 5% of the time and never ever used 4th. I have been on rough roads where we used 1st and 2nd most of the day but mostly straightish roads so less tiring.

This days driving took us along some of the narrowest road with drops of the side that high, you’d have time to phone your kids to say goodbye on the way down. The drop was always on Julie’s side of the car and regularly when she glanced over the edge she’d gasp with surprise. Every time you drove past a fresh landslip area you hope you got through before the next one.

Todays drive to Bumthang started through lots of road works that reduced after going over the pass at 3400 metres this valley is not as steep sided and has a lot more faming with the main crop being buckwheat.

It is also a very big weaving area. Driving along we noticed 2 women setting up the new warps for the loom so we went in and watched them. There bought out some items to show us, which ended with Julie and I buying a new rug for Alistair to use as his picnic blanket since his last one became a diff rebuild blanket.

We stopped at several weaving shops before arriving in town for lunch prior to looking around the town. The main place we visited was the Tamshing Goemba Monastery dating back to 1501.

The afternoon was finished of working on our blogs beside the fireplace in our room.

 

 

 

Rafting and Temples

Today was a rest day in the Punakha, which started with a choice of Rafting or visiting the temple of Fertility.

18 decided that Rafting was the go so all into the bus then off up the river to the start point. The river is low at the moment with the monsoon season having finished a couple months back. We could see how high the river had been earlier in the year. It was a pleasant paddle down the river with some small rapids to get us wet. However we took on most of the water from paddle splashing when we neared other boat. The water originates from the glaciers in the Himalayas, as it was quite cold it took me a couple hours after lunch before I was warn.

After lunch in the park beside the River we all headed to the Dzong built in the seventeenth century, which was, the original parliament till it was moved to Thimphu sometime ago. The architecture, carvings and painting of such a large build was fascinating.

Julie, Richard, Hector and I then grabbed a chance to go the Fertility Temple that we had missed in the morning.

Roadwork’s and Landslips.

Yesterday morning was spent catching up on my emails, as it was the best Internet since Kolkata. We looked around Thimphu before having lunch ready for the short 66k afternoon drive to Punakha.

This drive took us over a pass at 3100metres as we crossed into the next valley. The top of the pass had 108 Stupas, 108 is a very special numbers in Buddhism.

This entire road is a construction site with Indian workers widening the road, all the road construct in Bhutan is done by Indian workers that live in Shanty towns beside the road.

This piece of road is very important, as it is the only road connecting the East and West of Bhutan. During construction the workers are having a constant battle with landslips as they make the old cuttings wider for the new road.

With the Himalayas being the youngest mountain range on Earth, so much of the mountain are made from very unstable and loose rock which just keeps falling down with rain and slight tremors.

Drive 66k drive was a 2 1/2 hour events for us with the roughness and all the one way bits past landslips.

Our Hotel for the night is very very nice and will be home for the next 2 nights, while we visit some temples and some of the group go white-water Rafting.