Category: BHUTAN THUNDER DRAGON

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2 Tough Days Driving

It’s been a few days since you have heard from me. It’s a combination of tiredness and a small car repair job.

We will start with the car repair first, 2 days ago as we where driving the 180ks down to Gelephu on the Indian border late in the day after stopping for a photo I pushed the starter button only to engulfed in silence instead of the all to familiar engine rumble. A quick check at the roadside indicated the alternator had most likely failed. We run started down the hill and finished the day on the charge left in the battery to get us to the Hotel. On arrival we did a through check and yes the death of the alternator was upon us. We new we could continue for a few days by not stopping the engine and charging the battery from another car when needed. Frank gave a transfusion that night to get us going for the run up to Trongsa.

I was offered spare alternator’s from a couple of friends if I required.

On arrival in Trongsa I asked Paddy if he had a spare, which he did and was willing to share with a fellow traveller in need. It was different to the one we had, but in a couple of hours Charlie, Richard and I had it fitted into Penny just in time for evening dinner, we only needed to finalise the wiring before breakfast today. After the wiring was all finished we had a good steady stream of electrons flowing to the battery for prage and later use.

Now to the last three days driving, upon leaving Punakha the rally split into the long drive group with 180ks to drive and the short drive group traveling just 60ks for the day on a different route.

Driving in Bhutan is so totally different to any other trip I’ve ever travelled. Since entering Bhutan we are averaging about 30kph. The slow speed is a combination of narrow roads, very close sharp corners, meeting other traffic, road works, and negotiating your way around the numerous landslips. We arrived in Gelephu, which is a town down on the lowlands of Bhutan about 1k from the Indian border after 6 ½ hours. Gelephu is a Bhutanese town with a very Indian feel as it is so close to India and on the lowland and very much remote from the mountain villages that are the main Bhutanese life style.

As we followed the rafting river from the day before we passed two large Hydro Power station projects along with the Dams and tunnels required to get it all working.

Upon leaving Gelephu the following morning we immediately started to climb and it was back into anther day of hills and corners with scenery that was indescribable again. The day was spent climbing in and out of immense river valley’s doted with little villages where if was just flat enough to farm and live. The roads we could see on the mountainside to some of these villages were toonarrow and steep for any large vehicles to travel.

During the day we passed construction work for more Power Stations for electricity, which is the main export of Bhutan to feed the growing demand by India. Along with the power stations you need to put in the transmission lines which are traversing some of the most rugged country you can imagine. All the construction for this is being done by hand including all the steel for some tower sites being carried in by hand then built. All the cable is hauled through the jungle and winched into place by hand.

Summing up the these 2 days driving down to Gelephu and back I would have to say are the toughest and most amazing drives I have done. It was only 200ks each way but never before have I been on a road where the whole time you are steering either direction constantly. We only got into 3rd gear for about 5% of the time and never ever used 4th. I have been on rough roads where we used 1st and 2nd most of the day but mostly straightish roads so less tiring.

This days driving took us along some of the narrowest road with drops of the side that high, you’d have time to phone your kids to say goodbye on the way down. The drop was always on Julie’s side of the car and regularly when she glanced over the edge she’d gasp with surprise. Every time you drove past a fresh landslip area you hope you got through before the next one.

Todays drive to Bumthang started through lots of road works that reduced after going over the pass at 3400 metres this valley is not as steep sided and has a lot more faming with the main crop being buckwheat.

It is also a very big weaving area. Driving along we noticed 2 women setting up the new warps for the loom so we went in and watched them. There bought out some items to show us, which ended with Julie and I buying a new rug for Alistair to use as his picnic blanket since his last one became a diff rebuild blanket.

We stopped at several weaving shops before arriving in town for lunch prior to looking around the town. The main place we visited was the Tamshing Goemba Monastery dating back to 1501.

The afternoon was finished of working on our blogs beside the fireplace in our room.

 

 

 

Rafting and Temples

Today was a rest day in the Punakha, which started with a choice of Rafting or visiting the temple of Fertility.

18 decided that Rafting was the go so all into the bus then off up the river to the start point. The river is low at the moment with the monsoon season having finished a couple months back. We could see how high the river had been earlier in the year. It was a pleasant paddle down the river with some small rapids to get us wet. However we took on most of the water from paddle splashing when we neared other boat. The water originates from the glaciers in the Himalayas, as it was quite cold it took me a couple hours after lunch before I was warn.

After lunch in the park beside the River we all headed to the Dzong built in the seventeenth century, which was, the original parliament till it was moved to Thimphu sometime ago. The architecture, carvings and painting of such a large build was fascinating.

Julie, Richard, Hector and I then grabbed a chance to go the Fertility Temple that we had missed in the morning.

Roadwork’s and Landslips.

Yesterday morning was spent catching up on my emails, as it was the best Internet since Kolkata. We looked around Thimphu before having lunch ready for the short 66k afternoon drive to Punakha.

This drive took us over a pass at 3100metres as we crossed into the next valley. The top of the pass had 108 Stupas, 108 is a very special numbers in Buddhism.

This entire road is a construction site with Indian workers widening the road, all the road construct in Bhutan is done by Indian workers that live in Shanty towns beside the road.

This piece of road is very important, as it is the only road connecting the East and West of Bhutan. During construction the workers are having a constant battle with landslips as they make the old cuttings wider for the new road.

With the Himalayas being the youngest mountain range on Earth, so much of the mountain are made from very unstable and loose rock which just keeps falling down with rain and slight tremors.

Drive 66k drive was a 2 1/2 hour events for us with the roughness and all the one way bits past landslips.

Our Hotel for the night is very very nice and will be home for the next 2 nights, while we visit some temples and some of the group go white-water Rafting.

Awesome Farmhouse Homestay.

Happily today’s blog is full of joy and great news. Thursday morning we set out from Paro after the day of repairs to Penny on and absolutely stunning day. The air was crystal clear and the scenery was to die for.

 

We stoped in Paro to have a quick look at the shops that we had missed the previous day due to the repairs before embarking on going over the highest pass for our trip at 3988 metres. On this climb everything went perfect. The new engine in Penny is running better then ever as it is now fully run in performing very well along with everything else.

 

We stopped at the top of the pass for beautiful morning tea supplied by the Bhutan guides that are looking after us, before dropping down in to the Haa Valley.

 

The Haa Valley is the greenest valley we have been in since entering Bhutan. It’s not visited by a lot of tourist and is quite remote as our overnight accommodation is only 8ks for the Tibetan border.

 

After lunch in a park and some tradition Bhutanese games of darts and archery, Julie and I went back down to the main street for a wander around the shops to see how the locals shopped . It was a quirky mix of shops with so many selling exactly the same range of goods.

 

It was then off to our accommodation for the night and what a treat our accommodation was. As there was no guest house in town big enough for the entire rally, the guesthouse chosen didn’t have enough rooms for the entire rally so the rally in combination with the guest house h arranged for some of us to stay in local house as guest of the owners. We were the first foreigners to ever stay with our host family. Our hosts spoke no English so their son and niece were the communicators as they spoke very good English due the Bhutanese education system, which is based on English due to all the regional dialects.

The farm house was a 4 story building in the traditional Bhutanese style with the cows living in the first story, with the fourth story under the roof being the winter storage for all the grain and feed for both the family and the 5 cows that were milked everyday. The family slept in the second story with the third story being mostly the living area with the most beautiful room in the house the prayer room. The 8 of us in this house all slept on mattress on the floors of the living area and the son’s bedroom while ne slept in the kitchen. We where made to feel so at home and welcome it was superb.

Steps between the 2nd, 3rd and 4th floors were made from logs at an angle then having the treads cut in to make steps, these needed to be negotiated with great care due to the angle.

In the morning Chris took the whole family for a drive in his 1936 Ford Phaeton.

 

The drive out of the Haa Valley to the capitol was just septacular like all the drives in Bhutan, along roads that are very narrow and just hanging on the edge of the cliff. I don’t have good shots, as the roads don’t lend themselves to taking photos with one hand and driving with the other. It was only 120ks drive but took us all of 4 ½ hours with very few stops as most of the trip is done 2nd gear.

 

On arrival in Thimphu we had a lunch before looking around town and Julie partaking in some retail therapy in the form of a beautiful local dress.

We have a late start this morning before heading east into the more unpopulated parts of Bhutan.

 

The Gallery has a good collection of Photos today due to fast Internet. As we go east we expect the Internet to get slower.